Thursday, October 13, 2011

Home in the Old City


Today, I was pressed and pushed. I was smirked and kissed at. I think the men may wrongly assume that all American girls perpetually blush or scold or just giggle nervously.
On our free days, or the hours in between classes, we rush to the Old City.
I just walk along the cobble step streets and try to remember every face and feature.
A round little seven year old boy walks around the Old City with a cig burning on the end of his pouting lip. You can tell he thinks he is all that and a bag of those crunchy BBQ puff chips. An older man sits at his shop, stooped over a hooka, taking long, big draughts. He reminds me of the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland. A sickly sweet smoke billows around him and he closes his eyes, wraps his wrinkled hands around the nozzle, and seems to fall asleep in the clouds. Women in headscarves grasp their children's hands and walk brazenly forward. Tourists dawdle at the shops. The tourists in the bustling, matching color t-shirt groups fan themselves and then bow their heads, muttering prayers or singing hymns as they follow their guide.
I just realized I am talking about tourists and I am one.
But not really.
I have to admit, I feel like a natural now in the city.
I know, I know that is arrogant to say. To be honest, I still fit into the crowds of bustling tourists. But I feel more confident.
Growing up, I watched the cartoon movies of the scriptures. There is one with time travelers visiting Queen Esther. The time travelers are with Esther when she is chosen as queen, when she learns about Haman's plot against the Jews, and when she prepares the banquet. But my favorite part is when Queen Esther must go in to speak to the king. She knows she may die but she still walks forward, pushes aside the soldier's spears and, without looking down, says, "I am queen." Sometimes, when I am walking into places where I feel as though everyone is looking down on me, I compose my face, I look ahead and confidently walk forward. In the Old City, I was thinking about this.
I try to walk confidently.
I wear my genie pants, the ones with red and green and orange stripes as a belt. I munch away on the most delicious falafal, bursting with wedges of green cucumbers, fried chickpeas, and creamy humus wrapped up in pita bread that smells like yeast and warm earth.
I raise my eyebrows at the prices and tsk when I know the shopkeeper is trying to swindle me.
I know I have so much to learn. From the people. From the land. From the history somehow saved in every building and cobblestone.
But I still like to walk confidently and believe for a moment, that I belong here. Because, for right now, I do belong here.
Andrew, Katie, Me, Kaylie, Jeff, and Lauren
Me, Mary, and Kaylie
Anyone who knows me knows I am somewhat obsessed with the movie Ever After. I was a bit too loud in the holy church when I found this gem ... it's Leon Cre! As in, Nicole de Leon Cre.

I am doing pretty well on my goal to try every flavor of gelato ice cream. This day, double scoop of Ferro Rocher and Snickers. (from left to right-Mary, Me, Kaylie, and Scott).

While it wasn't the time of the year for the holiday, we had our own Seder dinner. That's the passover dinner with singing, crisp unleavened bread (tastes like saltine crackers ... yum) and, of course, our wonderful professor: Ophir.
Traditionally, Seder meals include wine. We feasted with grape juice.
An Adventure in the Kidron Valley. Me and a few of the Arabic students went to explore caves in the valley. There, we found millipedes, knats within the tombs and tethered ropes in Absalom's burial chamber. I felt like the female version of Indiana Jones.

Tragically, I died in the cave.
Then, I turned into a zombie with Egyptian dance moves. (Zombies from left to right: Whitney, Tyler, Robin (in back), Me (in front), Allyson, and Elise.
Our burial place. Or us planking. (Whitney, Me, Robin).
Kaylie (aka Popcorn) and I planned a night out on the town in West Jerusalem. We planned to go see a jazz concert and invited everyone we saw at the center. By the time we ordered the bus, more than forty people joined our group. The bus driver dropped us off on the side of the street and we tried to assemble a group of forty flirty students to find the concert. We searched and searched ... but never found it. We asked for directions. We listened for the whisper of some jazz note. We got lost in a food market. Eventually, we went to Ben Yuhada street and consoled ourselves with gelato. It was ... a wonderful night.
Outside of the JC, there are olive trees. I love the trees' large, gnarled roots and branches. The olives are like plump, hard green grapes and are so bitter they make my cheeks pinch. We each went out to fill bags full of these little olives. Later, we will press them into our own little flasks of Holy Land olive oil.
I reached the top of the tree branches on Cameron's shoulders (he kindly pretended like I wasn't hurting his shoulders). Before going on his shoulders, I did a nice job of getting so scratched up in the tree tops that I now am making good use of the Batman bandaids my Mom sent.
Elise, Me, Scott
Mary, Kaylie, Me, Mary
Falafels are the most delicious food since Betty Crocker brownies.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

A Rose Garden in Jerusalem


Before I left for Israel, I read the book "The Little Prince." I had never read it before and wished after I finished the last page, that I could meet the little prince on his little planet.

Now, I feel like I am on a different planet.

Except, I feel at home here.

I was much too excited when I arrived in Jerusalem and found velvet pink, yellow and red roses at the BYU Center. It reminded me of the little prince.

In the book, the little prince talks to a rose garden about his own rose ...
"You're lovely, but you're empty ... One couldn't die for you. Of course an ordinary passerby would think my rose looked just like you. But my rose, all on her own, is more important than you altogether, since she's the one I've watered. Since she's the one I put under glass. Since she's the one I sheltered behind a screen. Since she's the one for whom I killed the caterpillars (except for two or three for butterflies). Since's she the one I listened to when she complained, or when she boasted, or even sometimes when she said nothing at all. Since she's my rose." (passage from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's "The Little Prince")

Here in Jerusalem, I have fallen in love.

With the land.

With the people.

Jerusalem is a rose, to me.


Me and Popcorn. Ok, ok her name really isn't Popcorn. This is my roommate Kaylie. I call her Popcorn as an endearing pet nickname. I christened her "Popcorn" because she pops her knuckles and spine and sternum ... (I didn't even know you could pop your sternum). We have too much fun shopping, eating Magnum bars and procrastinating our homework together.
Me, Mary, Kaylie and Jessica at Tel Aviv. The Mediterranean water is oh so lush and warm. I only wondered for a moment if the fish that swallowed Jonah was nearby.


I graffitied my name at the Jerusalem Center. Ok, everyone was allowed to ... but I still feel immortalized.
Apparently, they know me in Jerusalem.
I found Eeyore in Jerusalem. I intend to ride him home and keep as a pet.
Our Modern Near Eastern teacher told us to try his favorite restaurant Lina. We searched the Old City until we found the place. We tried the warm pita with humus ... and ordered seconds. We tried the fresh squeezed lemonade and our eyes burned.

After two weeks of falling in love with Jerusalem, they then swept us away to a different land ... Turkey.


Ok, ok. I know. I know. It is not a good idea to touch potentially diseased, sneezing, lice-infested cats on the cobblestone streets of Turkey. But let me explain.
This little kitten with three legs ran up to me.
He nuzzled my leg.
He meowed so sweetly.
So I couldn't resist. I scratched his little ear.
And then the kitten sneezed into my hand.
I delighted in the Turkish delight.
Desiree and Me as Greek Goddesses at Assos.
Katherine, Mattie and Me at yet another unbelievably picturesque place of Turkey.
Perhaps the most wonderful memory so far was dancing on the beach, around a bon fire, and getting sand in between our toes while dancing to J.B.
No, these are not Greek Goddesses (it is easy to get confused) ... Me, Mary, Kaylie, Jessica, and Robin.
We are about to take over Troy in our own Trojan horse. (Where's Waldo? Hint: I'm the white bead in the middle window).
I ate this fish's eye ... on a dare. It was like a squishy white bead. But I am not allowed to talk about how the eye tasted like diseased liver because it grosses Jessica out.
Proof I ate said squishy fish eye.
We have Magnum ice cream bar addictions. I think it is a healthy addiction. Double chocolate feeds my soul.
Sigh.
The world is so, so beautiful.
Back at the Jerusalem Center, dressed and ready for Arab night.
Marahaba! That's Arabic for hello.
Yes, Jerusalem is my rose.

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Here in Jerusalem


Now, I do not know where to begin. I have too many notes to scribble in this notebook. I have bitten off a month of experience and I can’t swallow it in one nice little gulp.

But rather than bore you with a long detail by detail version I think I will just post a few of the emails to my mom.

For about a month, I have been living here in Jerusalem.

Jerusalem is my Wonderland.

I just can’t help myself. I am like one of those fanatical girls who can’t stop gushing about their only beloved. Except, I seem to be in love with a place.

Yes, I love Jerusalem.

I love walking into the Old City. I love how I get lost in the bustle of people. I love how the little boys in kipas tussle around me. I love the smell of spices and warm pita bread.

Sometimes, I just sit at the center and look out at the city. There are so many buildings. Each of the stone structures are nestled close together until they all crowd one another and look like crushed precious sand stones.

The Golden Dome looks like a fat rising sun in the midst of it all.

I lose all my shekels to the shopkeepers. They tell me I have pretty eyes and once again, I can’t help myself.

100 shekels for a piece of tarnished jewelry? No, no I can’t. What? It will protect my blue eyes from envious eyes? Well, of course. I must have it.

I think my favorite place to go is the Garden Tomb. It’s just so quite there. Except for the tour groups prattling away in Arabic or Hebrew or some African language, it is so quiet.

Or sometimes, I just like to stay at the Center and sit outside. The Center has big, juicy pomegranates that droop on the tree limbs like round rubies.

We pluck them from the tree and let the rubies drip their sticky juices on our fingertips.

Then, I rush off for the classes, mumbling about the homework I have not finished, but still thinking about where to go after lunch: the Garden of Gethsemane, the Pools of Bethesda or the Church of the Holy Sepulcher perhaps.

I just can’t help myself. I have fallen in love with Jerusalem.